Grand Finale

Tonight at the end of our stay we made our way back to Har-Ki-Pauri for the evening Arti ceremony. As dusk fell over the Ganges we were aware that crowds had completely filled both banks of the river as far as the eye could see. Those nearest the river were lighting small spills attached to baskets of flowers which were launched into the water. Small islands of light floated past and the enormous crowd fell silent.

Arti ceremony at night

large torches burned opposite our position as the haunting rhythmical music began to fill the evening air. The priests rotated the torches making circles of fire in the night. The worshippers, subtly at first hummed their part of the liturgy. The effect was magical. As the music gained pace, the sound from the crowd grew. More fiery boats of marigolds were released. Tiny specks of light in a black river. It was a deeply moving spectacle.

There is something compelling about thousands of people expressing their devotions in music and actions. The darkness and the tiny lights add to the mystique.

I stole a glance along the line of photographers up on the gantry with me. Apart from one television cameraman, intent on capturing the moment, the others had ceased to take photographs and were gently clapping their hands in time to the music. That’s how the Kumbh Mela can take you.