Sadhu City

Today Haridwar was much quieter. Many of the crowds have disappeared leaving behind tons of litter and a few thousand faithful worshippers who maintain a vigil at the ghats until the next holy day.

Sadhus travel light

Among the faithful are between seven and eight hundred Sadhus who live in specially guarded camps near to the town.

Late this afternoon we were offered a chance to visit them. The naked Hindu sages live lives of prayer and contemplation in the villages and ashrams high up in the Himalayas. Once every twelve years they come to Haridwar for four months for the Kumbh Mela. Their temporary homes are tents which house them and their sacred objects of devotion.

These men have renounced worldly goods and family life in order to devote themselves to God. Inside each tent sits the sadhu, his body covered in ash from the holy fire. This coating of ash remains until he next walks to the edge of the Ganges and immerses himself in the sacred waters of Mama Ganga. Around each sadhu in his tent may be attendants, benefactors or simply hangers-on.

Shoes must be removed before entering and one only goes in if invited to do so. The air inside is thick with smoke, sometimes from the fire in the middle of the floor, sometimes from the pipe containing hash which they love to smoke.

One was aware of the deep penetrating eyes of the sadhu. Often he would say little, possibly because he lacked an understanding of English, but it is claimed that these men have second sight and their eyes can see into one’s very soul.

In some tents there were gurus sitting in a yogic posture teaching a group of disciples or receiving prayer requests. Other sadhus were taking an afternoon nap, laid out full length on rugs.

The eccentricities of these individuals only adds to the belief among many Hindus that they have left our phenomenal world and been absorbed into the realm of the noumenal. Some have taken vows to remain standing for years , even during times of prayer and sleep. Others renounce all speech. It is said their devotion to God is total.

Sadhu's blessing

Having said that, they were quite keen on a gift or reward for being photographed and from time to time I thought I glimpsed sight of a portable television behind the dividing wall of the tent. There was also the small mobile phone propped up behind the sacred symbol OM – no doubt used as an aid to prayer.